[C320-list] Fresh Water Engine Flush

[John Meyers]

Like Christian, I also have a Tee for antifreeze here on the (Unsalted and
Shark Free) Great Lakes. I put my Tee just after the thru hull and before
the strainer so that the antifreeze is also in the strainer. Not that it
makes much of a difference but my thru hull outputs forward which makes it
slightly easier to attach the short hose to the bucket of antifreeze in the
cockpit.

John Meyers
Wind Chime #406
Muskegon, MI

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 11:25 AM Christian <ccaper at gmail.com> wrote:

> Bob,
> I have done this for winterizing my boat to flush out water and get
> anti-freeze in the system.  I installed the t-fitting last fall.
>
> Here is the t-fitting I ordered, available at Walmart for $1.67.
>
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/LASCO-Fem-Tee-Insert-x-FNPT-3-4-In-PVC-1402007/406982633
>
> Take this t-fitting to Home Depot, and in the pvc section get the male end
> cap, matched to the threads in t-fitting.  You will want this end cap in
> the t-fitting during normal boat use, and use some teflon tape on this
> threads as well.  Then, go to the plumbing section and get a male PVC to
> male garden hose adapter that will convert the threads to a garden hose
> thread.  This allows you to connect a garden hose to your raw water line.
> Mine was a metal adapter.  Also get hose clamps for 3/4" hose, you'll need
> at least 2. I recommend 4, 2 on each side of the t-fitting, each one
> flipped 180 for redundancy.
>
> All parts will be less than $15 total.  You'll also need auto hose cutters,
> and a likely a wire cutter at that hose has re-enforced wire you'll need to
> cut where hose cutter couldn't cut through.
>
> When you want to use the t-fitting, connect the garden hose to the
> t-fitting, pass the hose through a port light opening, have a bucket in the
> cockpit, put other end of hose in bucket, and CLOSE through hull for raw
> water intake.  Start engine, and just mind you don't run out of water in
> the bucket and that hose is at bottom of bucket and hasn't floated to the
> top, only sucking in air.  Nice thing about this is you can also easily
> start engine on land when needed.
>
> I've included a link to two pictures I took when I did this.  Don't make
> the same location mistake I made, and put the t-fitting right under the
> Racor filter, as now I have a difficult time draining my racor (I plan to
> adjust that this fall during haul out).
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BorFrCCDV3B/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Christian Caperton
> 1994 C320 "Canuck" #138
> Monroe Harbor, Chicago, IL
>
> On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 10:00 AM Bob Hoyt <rehoyt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > A diesel mechanic recommended that I flush the raw water side of the
> engine
> > with fresh water when not using the boat for more than 2 weeks. This
> would
> > require installing a barbed tee piece between the strainer and the water
> > pump. Has anyone done this as I didn't find it in the forum archives?
> Also,
> > I live in Florida so I don't need to do this as part of winterizing.
> Thanks
> >
> > Bob Hoyt
> > "Ikigai"
> > !994 Hull #58
> > Pensacola, FL
> >
> > --
> >
> > *Robert (Bob) Hoyt MD, FACP, ABPM-CI*
> >
> > *Associate Clinical Professor, Department of Internal Medicine*
> >
> > *Virginia Commonwealth University*
> >
> > *Richmond, VA*
> >
> >
> > *CAPT (Ret) USN*
> >
> >
> >
> *---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
> >
> > *Adjunct Associate Professor, College of Allied Health Professions*
> >
> > *University of Nebraska Medical Center*
> >
> > *Omaha, NE*
> >
> > *Diplomate, Clinical Informatics*
> >
> > InformaticsEducation.org  <http://InformaticsEducation.org>
> > rehoyt at gmail.com
> >
> > robert.hoyt at unmc.edu <robert.hoyt at unmd.edu>
> >
> > robert.hoyt at vcuhealth.org
> >
> > Cell: 850-384-5235
> >
>