[C320-list] Refrigerator Replacement - 1995 Hull 268

[Tim Hoffert]

I just changed our fridge a couple weeks ago in our 1999 (hull 612).  We
replaced the original Adler Barbour system with a completely new Dometic
system using the CU 100 condenser and VD 150 evaporator.  It's winter time
in Michigan, so other than testing to make sure it works, I haven't been
able to run it, so can't speak to efficiency, etc.  I've not noticed any
moisture in the aft cabin either, but we've only had the boat since July
and the fridge never worked, so it's something I'll have to keep an eye
on.  But, I can speak to the installation.  Not too difficult.  The
included directions are pretty good (there is a copy on the Defender
website if you want to see it before you buy it), but I did learn a few
things specific to our boat that would have helped make things go quite a
bit quicker and easier:

1.   Most materials you'll need are included the two packages, but not
everything.  You'll need some additional screws for the condenser (or reuse
the existing if in good condition), additional zip ties, plumber putty or
some other sort of sealant for the hole in the ice box (the installation
manual suggests Mortite-I was able to find a similar product at Home Depot
and it worked great), and refrigerant oil to lubricate the threads on the
refrigerant lines-this can be purchased at an auto parts store.  I had to
go to a couple stores to find something in a small bottle as you only need
a tiny bit.

2.  When removing the old unit, you may or may not have an issue with the
old refrigerant leaking out when you disconnect the lines.  I was a little
nervous about this because I had the old fittings and heard mixed opinions
as to what would happen when I cracked them open.  I loosened a little,
listened for hissing and watched for leakage to test, and upon
hearing/seeing nothing, loosened a little more.  I had no issues-nothing
came out. I know for sure there was refrigerant in the system because I
could hear it moving around the evaporator when I tried to run the old
unit.  Not sure what your experience will be with a 1995.  Given the
environmental rule, you may want to have someone evacuate the system to be
safe-it's up to you how you want to handle it.

3.  Not sure about 1995, but in 1999 there is conduit running from just
behind the fridge to just below the shelf the condenser is mounted to.
It's specifically for the fridge lines and nothing else.  Once you've
disconnected the condenser, tie a mouse line to the end and pull the old
lines through.

4.  When you're ready to install the new evaporator, unroll the entire coil
of copper tubing-it'll run up to the v-berth.  Be sure to wrap the
thermostat wire around the tubing at this point.  It's a pain to run it
through separately after the copper tubing is already in the conduit.  Ask
me how I know!

5.  When running the tubing through the conduit, I found it best to have
two helpers.  I pulled on the mouse line from the aft locker, had one
helper feeding into the fridge box, and another helper holding the
evaporator and walking it from the v-birth to the galley.  The hole in my
fridge box a little small to fit both connector ends at the same time.  I
was able to offset the connectors a little so they went through one at a
time and was able to get everything through without enlarging the hole.

6.  Make sure you push the foam covering through with the tubing.  You want
the foam to start just outside the box and run through the conduit and into
the aft locker. Again, a real pain if you try to pull the foam through
after the tubing is already in the conduit.

7.  All of the evaporator mounting holes line up exactly with the old
holes-very convenient!

8.  The new condenser parts are oriented a little different than the old
one.  On my old one, the refrigerant lines connected on the aft side of the
condenser unit and the electrical connection was on the forward side.  On
the new one, they are both on the same end.  In my case, the power wires
weren't long enough to reach the new location.  Rather than run new wires
or extend them, I turned the condenser unit 180 degrees.  There was a
little gap at the forward corner of the shelf near where the bulkhead,
shelf, and hull meet.  I was able to run the refrigerant lines through this
hole.  I put a little of the Mortite putty in there to prevent rubbing.  I
do think the refrigerant lines are actually more protected this way than
with the factory installation, and my excess line is in a nice large loop
zip tied to the bottom of the shelf.

9.  You will need to get down into the aft locker.  It's a tight fit.  I
don't consider myself small, but was able to get in there.  I recommend
having a helper on the outside to hand you tools and supplies!

Tim Hoffert
1999 C320-Hull 612.


On Mon, Jan 18, 2021 at 11:56 AM Cliff Lee <rcliffordlee at gmail.com> wrote:

> It is time to replace the fridge after 25 years.  While I think the
> evaporator may be the problem, better to replace in whole and get the
> efficiency improvement.  I've read a lot of the threads on the C320 site,
> but I would appreciate your thoughts on:
> 1.  There is a long, thin wood veneer running along the port side of our
> aft berth, about 2 feet above the mattress.  We have routinely had moisture
> at the forward point of the veneer over the years.  I suspect it may be
> condensation around the refrigerant tubing leaving the fridge, but don't
> really know.  I can't find any other leaks in that area.  I am thinking I
> may need to remove that veneer anyway to gain access to run the new
> refrigerant tubing from the fridge to the port aft locker where our
> compressor/condenser is/will be.  Does this sound right and how difficult
> is it to remove that veneer?
> 2.  Suggestions for make/model of fridge?  We currently have an older
> Adler-Barbour evaporator mounted vertically on the left side (looking in)
> of the fridge compartment, with the compressor and condenser on a shelf in
> the aft port locker - that seems like a good spot for us, since there is a
> lot of room for cooling air circulation.
> 3.  How difficult is this project really?  I'm not looking forward to
> contorting myself but have been told it is not bad and costs for
> professional installation can be pretty high.
>
> Thanks,
> Cliff Lee - Comfort Zone 1995 - Hull 268
>