[C320-list] Refrigerator Replacement - 1995 Hull 268

[Doug Treff]

Tim,

I'm about to embark on this same project. Thank you for this detailed post. It definitely answered some of my questions, and also a few questions I didn't know I had. ;-)

THIS RIGHT HERE is why this email group and the association are so valuable!

--
Doug Treff
doug at treff.us

On Mon, Jan 18, 2021, at 9:00 PM, Tim Hoffert wrote:
> I just changed our fridge a couple weeks ago in our 1999 (hull 612).  We
> replaced the original Adler Barbour system with a completely new Dometic
> system using the CU 100 condenser and VD 150 evaporator.  It's winter time
> in Michigan, so other than testing to make sure it works, I haven't been
> able to run it, so can't speak to efficiency, etc.  I've not noticed any
> moisture in the aft cabin either, but we've only had the boat since July
> and the fridge never worked, so it's something I'll have to keep an eye
> on.  But, I can speak to the installation.  Not too difficult.  The
> included directions are pretty good (there is a copy on the Defender
> website if you want to see it before you buy it), but I did learn a few
> things specific to our boat that would have helped make things go quite a
> bit quicker and easier:
> 
> 1.   Most materials you'll need are included the two packages, but not
> everything.  You'll need some additional screws for the condenser (or reuse
> the existing if in good condition), additional zip ties, plumber putty or
> some other sort of sealant for the hole in the ice box (the installation
> manual suggests Mortite-I was able to find a similar product at Home Depot
> and it worked great), and refrigerant oil to lubricate the threads on the
> refrigerant lines-this can be purchased at an auto parts store.  I had to
> go to a couple stores to find something in a small bottle as you only need
> a tiny bit.
> 
> 2.  When removing the old unit, you may or may not have an issue with the
> old refrigerant leaking out when you disconnect the lines.  I was a little
> nervous about this because I had the old fittings and heard mixed opinions
> as to what would happen when I cracked them open.  I loosened a little,
> listened for hissing and watched for leakage to test, and upon
> hearing/seeing nothing, loosened a little more.  I had no issues-nothing
> came out. I know for sure there was refrigerant in the system because I
> could hear it moving around the evaporator when I tried to run the old
> unit.  Not sure what your experience will be with a 1995.  Given the
> environmental rule, you may want to have someone evacuate the system to be
> safe-it's up to you how you want to handle it.
> 
> 3.  Not sure about 1995, but in 1999 there is conduit running from just
> behind the fridge to just below the shelf the condenser is mounted to.
> It's specifically for the fridge lines and nothing else.  Once you've
> disconnected the condenser, tie a mouse line to the end and pull the old
> lines through.
> 
> 4.  When you're ready to install the new evaporator, unroll the entire coil
> of copper tubing-it'll run up to the v-berth.  Be sure to wrap the
> thermostat wire around the tubing at this point.  It's a pain to run it
> through separately after the copper tubing is already in the conduit.  Ask
> me how I know!
> 
> 5.  When running the tubing through the conduit, I found it best to have
> two helpers.  I pulled on the mouse line from the aft locker, had one
> helper feeding into the fridge box, and another helper holding the
> evaporator and walking it from the v-birth to the galley.  The hole in my
> fridge box a little small to fit both connector ends at the same time.  I
> was able to offset the connectors a little so they went through one at a
> time and was able to get everything through without enlarging the hole.
> 
> 6.  Make sure you push the foam covering through with the tubing.  You want
> the foam to start just outside the box and run through the conduit and into
> the aft locker. Again, a real pain if you try to pull the foam through
> after the tubing is already in the conduit.
> 
> 7.  All of the evaporator mounting holes line up exactly with the old
> holes-very convenient!
> 
> 8.  The new condenser parts are oriented a little different than the old
> one.  On my old one, the refrigerant lines connected on the aft side of the
> condenser unit and the electrical connection was on the forward side.  On
> the new one, they are both on the same end.  In my case, the power wires
> weren't long enough to reach the new location.  Rather than run new wires
> or extend them, I turned the condenser unit 180 degrees.  There was a
> little gap at the forward corner of the shelf near where the bulkhead,
> shelf, and hull meet.  I was able to run the refrigerant lines through this
> hole.  I put a little of the Mortite putty in there to prevent rubbing.  I
> do think the refrigerant lines are actually more protected this way than
> with the factory installation, and my excess line is in a nice large loop
> zip tied to the bottom of the shelf.
> 
> 9.  You will need to get down into the aft locker.  It's a tight fit.  I
> don't consider myself small, but was able to get in there.  I recommend
> having a helper on the outside to hand you tools and supplies!
> 
> Tim Hoffert
> 1999 C320-Hull 612.
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jan 18, 2021 at 11:56 AM Cliff Lee <rcliffordlee at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> > It is time to replace the fridge after 25 years.  While I think the
> > evaporator may be the problem, better to replace in whole and get the
> > efficiency improvement.  I've read a lot of the threads on the C320 site,
> > but I would appreciate your thoughts on:
> > 1.  There is a long, thin wood veneer running along the port side of our
> > aft berth, about 2 feet above the mattress.  We have routinely had moisture
> > at the forward point of the veneer over the years.  I suspect it may be
> > condensation around the refrigerant tubing leaving the fridge, but don't
> > really know.  I can't find any other leaks in that area.  I am thinking I
> > may need to remove that veneer anyway to gain access to run the new
> > refrigerant tubing from the fridge to the port aft locker where our
> > compressor/condenser is/will be.  Does this sound right and how difficult
> > is it to remove that veneer?
> > 2.  Suggestions for make/model of fridge?  We currently have an older
> > Adler-Barbour evaporator mounted vertically on the left side (looking in)
> > of the fridge compartment, with the compressor and condenser on a shelf in
> > the aft port locker - that seems like a good spot for us, since there is a
> > lot of room for cooling air circulation.
> > 3.  How difficult is this project really?  I'm not looking forward to
> > contorting myself but have been told it is not bad and costs for
> > professional installation can be pretty high.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Cliff Lee - Comfort Zone 1995 - Hull 268
> >
>