[C320-list] Problems at survey

[Jeff Hare]

Graeme,

Rebedding the chainplates is not overly complicated to do, even with the mast up.  You'll just do them one at a time and use the halyards to offset the loads a bit from the one you're working on. You'll need 2 people to reassemble for sure because you'll need someone to keep the screw from turning at all when you tighten the nuts from below.

I'll offer one bit of advise though. Purchase a complete new set of machine screws that are significantly longer (maybe a 1.5" or so longer) than the ones you remove. The reason is that deck will lift slightly and the lower plate will drop a bit when the tension is removed.  Long bolts will let you easily get the nuts started and retightened. Just cut them off to the right length when done.  I didn't do this when I did this job and it was a chore getting the nuts restarted. 

Butyl tape is the easiest solution. You may want to hit each of the holes on deck with a chamfering bit to allow the butyl to fully seal the holes around the bolt when it gets tightened down.

There is no core where the stanchions and chainplates go through, just solid fiberglass.  There are backing washers and nuts below that you can access in the vberth. The padded side-ceiling trim in the vberth can be removed to expose the wiring channel and the nuts. See this picture for one example.

https://c320.org/mediagallery/media.php?f=1&s=200811161535592

The ones closer to the bow may be trickier. But way back in 2003 (I think), I removed a portion of the fiberglass behind the vberth shelf to make it easier to access the windlass and hoses up there. Gerry Douglas told me there was no problem with removing the lower portion of this fiberglass panel. I suspect, however, that you will be able to reach the nuts for the two forwardmost stanchion legs through the access port in the anchor locker. I know people have replaced the bow pulpit this way.  But anyway, here's a pic of the cutaway behind the upper portion of the vberth shelf.

https://c320.org/mediagallery/media.php?f=1&s=20081116153535423

Either way, I do not believe there would be any damage caused by leaking in either of these places unless the dripping damaged the woodwork. The long teak trim boards in the main salon often get black marks where the stainless screws go through. This usually happens when there is a hatch leak or the genoa tracks leak. Remove the boards and they will sand down very easily and look just like new. Recoat with Target Coatings EM2000 or a water based satin sealer and it'll look like it came from the factory.

-Jeff 

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of Graeme Clark
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2022 10:59 AM
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] Problems at survey

I’m selling my C320 and the initial survey on behalf of the buyer has identified some water ingress from beneath forward stbd stanchions as well as small weeps from beneath chainplates causing small amounts of rusting on the nuts that are in underside of saloon ceiling To be honest I just always accepted this sort of thing as part and parcel of owning a 26 year old boat Inevitably though there will have to be a renegotiation on price to allow for the new owner to get this issue fixed - or I remove the boat from the market, fix it myself and then readvertise Can anyone tell me what’s involved in such repairs and whether it’s likely that any serious (ie structural) damage has been caused by not sorting it out sooner?
Many thanks
Graeme Clark
#366, 1996
UK


Sent from my phone. Excuse typos!